This Trukk — Da Fancy Wun — is an experiment in more than one way (it’s my first conversion!), and on the color front I’m trying two things: four recipes for blue on the same model (Trukk parts, Taurox body, the gunner’s armor bits, and the signature blue fender and gunner’s war paint); and splashes of colors that are uncommon or unseen in the rest of my army (so far), like gold and dark red, for a bit of a “rusty, ramshackle clown car” aesthetic.
I’ve pulled the Taurox Prime recipes straight from GW, twiddled a bit; most of the others are from GW’s site or White Dwarf. As always, shades/washes are in italics.
Worth noting: I painted, washed, and sealed the metal and rubber on the very bottom of all six tires (and let the sealant fully cure) before working on the rest of the Trukk, so as to avoid rubbing off the paint every time I set it down. This proved to be a good idea — and I wish I’d done the whole tire, not just the bottom, because I rubbed all the paint off many of the rivets on the tires over the course of painting the rest of the model.
Also worth noting: I highlighted the rubber portions of the tires before deciding how to weather them, and the weathering approach I chose basically erased all of those highlights. A step to skip next time!
- Taurox body: Russ Grey > Agrax Earthshade > Thunderhawk Blue > Fenrisian Grey
- Taurox gold: Retributor Armour > Agrax Earthshade > Gehenna’s Gold > Auric Armour Gold
- Taurox red panels: Khorne Red > Agrax Earthshade > Wazdakka Red > Squig Orange
- Trukk parts blue: Macragge Blue > Agrax Earthshade > Calgar Blue > Fenrisian Grey
- Trukk tire rubber: Abaddon Black > Skavenblight Dinge > Stormvermin Fur
- Trademark blue fender: Caledor Sky > Drakenhof Nightshade > Teclis Blue > Lothern Blue
- Metal: Leadbelcher > Nuln Oil > Ironbreaker
- Brass/bronze: Warplock Bronze > Agrax Earthshade > Brass Scorpion
- White glyphs/decorations: Celestra Grey > Agrax Earthshade > Ulthuan Grey > White Scar
- Ork gunner: From my Boyz color guide, skin #6 (Caliban Green base), blue #3 (Thousand Suns Blue base), black pants, brown shirt, and Zandri teeth/nails.
- Squig skin and NOS tanks: Mephiston Red > Carroburg Crimson > Evil Sunz Scarlet > Wild Rider Red
- Squig eyes: Averland Sunset > incidental but helpful Carroburg Crimson wash when I do the face > Yriel Yellow
- Squig teeth and nails: Zandri Dust > Seraphim Sepia > Ushabti Bone > Screaming Skull
- Squig gums: Screamer Pink > Carroburg Crimson > Pink Horror > Emperor’s Children
- Fuel tank: Averland Sunset > Agrax Earthshade > Yriel Yellow
- Headlights: Moot Green or Averland Sunset > Agrax Earthshade > Moot Green or Yriel Yellow
- Roll bar wraps: Zandri Dust > Seraphim Sepia > Ushabti Bone > Screaming Skull
- Severed head flesh: Rakarth Flesh > Druchii Violet > Pallid Wych Flesh > White Scar
- Severed head hair: Dryad Bark > Agrax Earthshade > Gorthor Brown > Baneblade Brown
- Weathering and embellishments: These steps all happen after the rest of the mini is 100% done (including highlights); not every Ork uses all of them:
- Checks: Macragge Blue and Corax White; I wrote a little guide for these
- Chipping: Apply dots of Leadbelcher on the high points, edges, and surfaces where paint would naturally have been worn off
- Battle-damaged edges: Tiny dot/line of Rhinox Hide > mirror the same shape with a line underneath it of whatever blue base coat I used for that area (Warhammer TV reference video)
- Bullet holes: Highlight the edges of the hole in the appropriate color (e.g. Calgar Blue), then apply Leadbelcher to make it look like the paint was blown away
- Built-up rust In spots where it can accumulate over a long period, such as on and around bolts, apply thinned-down Skrag Brown
- Rusty streaks: Thinned-down Skrag Brown > thinned-down Fire Dragon Bright (like I do on my 40k terrain)
- Verdigris: Nihilakh Oxide
- Grime: Sponge on Rhinox Hide
- Caked-on grime: Typhus Corrosion
- Dusty, dirty tires: Thinned-down 50/50 Dryad Bark/Zandri Dust > thinned-down Baneblade Brown in the deep crevices > Tyrant Skull drybrush > Seraphim Sepia pin wash to reestablish the crevices (I followed this Way of the Brush tutorial, but modified it based on my colors on hand and used water instead of Lahmian Medium; this approach isn’t ideal for the metal/rubber combo tires on the Trukk, though)
I have to varnish Da Fancy Wun in two stages — tires and undercarriage first, curing for 24-48 hours upside down, and then the rest — so it’s going to be a few days until I can get it into my (new!) lightbox for some photos. It’s been a fun ride!